Tuesday 14 July 2009

More Bolivia - La Paz & Lake Titicaca (3-6 July)






We'd found out about the World's Most Dangerous Road from Kathryn & Jeremy who we got drunk with in Paraty. Its no longer that dangerous as teh Bolivians have built a new road taking away all the traffic from this dirt track that goes from 4200m - 1800m, so an easy ride down a big hill that starts in barren snow bound surroundings, and ends in tropical warmth. And its great fun - amazing views, and pretty exhilarating with sheer drops of 100s of metres off the side of the track. And nothing as sensible as safety barriers. Our group of 13 almost make it to the bottom unscathed, but about 50m from the lodge where our ride ends, on probably the safest part some dogs run out in front of one guy who goes over the handlebars. Great fun though, and a great day out to get some oxygen from a lower, less polluted part of Bolivia.

We're pretty exhausted back in La Paz, and have an early night as we're up early the next morning to head off to Copacabana, which has a beautiful position on the banks of Lake Titicaca. Its only 3 hrs or so away, and still high to cause us problems, especaially after enoying a beer with lunch. The altitude inspired hangover hit about an hour after a beer, making us feel like the lightest of lightweights, and having to return to our room for the rest of the day. Fortunately we had a great place to recover - a great little hotel called La Cupula. They only had the honeymoon suite left when we arrived (how apt) which was probably the best place we have stayed in all trip, and all for US$34 per night.

Next morning, we are up early-ish to head over to Isla Sol - the birthplace of the sun in Inca mythology. Its not far, but the publi boat we get is the slowest ever as it chugs its way to the north end of the island. We then hke along the coast to the south end to pick up the boat back - not the best of ideas at altitude as we're breathless after about 10 steps of the first up. But we make it, exhausted, and suffering a bit more from the altitude. Not the brightest idea we have ever had, but some great views across the enormous lake. Fortunately our great hotel also has a great restaurant so we dont have to stumble too far to get some supper...

We've been quite lucky with our travel plans so far, not a lot has had to be changed, but next morning, when we go down to confirm our onward bus tickets to Cuzco in Peru, we learn that there is a strike about to start for 3 days. We can go today, or wait 4 days until Friday. We'd also discovered that there was a train strike this week in Peru, so as we've chickened out of trekking the Inca trail for 5 days, the train is our only other option, which we've already booked for Friday morning. So we've gotta go. Now. We've got plenty of time, which is just as well, as rushing around at this altitude is not an option, so soon we're off to Peru, just a day ahead of expected!

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