Our Bolivian train from Quijarro to Santa Cruz doesnt leave until 4pm, but we have to get tickets, so set off early-ish from COrumba to cross the border. First stop is the police station to get our Brazilian departure stamp, and then onto the local bus to the border, and then a short walk into Bolivia, where we can change some Reals to Bolivanos, and then jump in a cab to the station. The comparison to Brazil is quite stark. Bolivia is a much poorer country than Brazil - the streets are much dustier, with more people on them waiting for something to happen. The shops are emptier, and the people seem more withered, but it also means that everything is much cheaper! However, it does have a train system, which will be the first train we have used since we were in New Zealand...
We've a lot of time to kill in Quijarro, and not a lot to help fill it before we get on El tren de los muerte, which translates as the death train - so named because by the time you've covered the 350 or so km 18 hours later, you're ready to kill yourself... It wasnt that bad as we managed to sleep most of the way despite it being possibly the bounciest train we have ever seen.
Anyway after saying bon voyage to Esther, we met a Brazilian couple who were racing up to Macchu Picchu during their fortnight's winter holiday, and wanted to get on the same plane as us, so we shared a cab out to the airport and managed to check in, even though the flight wasnt for another 8 hours - makes you realise how frustrating it is flying with Easyjet or Ryanair. Anyway so we had a day to hang out in Santa Cruz, which was probably enough - nice square to potter around, and some decent lunch, but we were happy to get on the plane to La Paz. What we have noticed mind is a lot of Bolivians are wearing masks - presumably to protect themselves from swine flu...
Shame we arrived in the dark, as am sure it would have been great views on the approach. The airport sits at 4400m, even higher than the city, and the first symptom of being at altitude is the breathlessness from the simplest action (like going to the loo!) It felt a lot more that we were on an adventure in La Paz as the rest of South America has felt very European, but here the people look different, there's lots of odd things for sale (dead llama foetuses to bury under your door step for good luck) and its all dirt cheap. Its also really polluted with old busses and minivans pumping out tonnes of diesel fumes - not too pleasant. Its also pretty chilly pottering around the centre - markets, squares and checking out women wearing bowler hats. Its an OK place, but we'll look forward to moving on after we achieve what we have come to La Paz for - surviving mountain biking down the world's dangerous road...
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