Kerala Pt 2 - Munnar - Periyar - Kumarakom (15 - 19 Dec)

Halo Backwaters have put together a great trip for us - Philip is there waiting to collect us from the houseboat to drive us up to the cool Hill Station of Munnar. We head up into the mountains past waterfalls, rivers and tea plantation after tea plantation. Its a beautiful drive and again shows the contrasts that exist throughout India. Even the driving is slightly better in this part of the country, although, there are still plenty of hair raising moments!

Meeta and Graham arent due into Munnar until late, so once we get checked into our hotel, we're out for a curry and early to bed.

Next morning we are up early for a day of sight seeing. The whole area has stunning scenery, cloudy mountain tops, with tea bushes for miles and miles. We start the day at the local garden centre. The climate in this region offers perfect growing conditions for all types of flowers and plants - its just like an English country garden really, but once again, Luce & I are the main attraction for the locals. One baby girl in particular is transfixed by us, her brown eyes wide in bewilderment at these white noses. She is handed over for the obligatory picture, which opens the door for the other family to ask the same, but the slightly older boy is terrified by Luce and streams in terror! After a brief stop to watch some ladies picking tea we pass by a dam and a Lake keeping an eye out for wild elephants who roam this part of the forest. We dont see one, but see the dung that proves they do exist! We stop off at Echo point to shout out at the forest and hear it call back...

Indians are rightly proud of this area, and it is such a contrast to the rest of the dusty country, but it reminds us of the Lake District, and sadly the weather is also straight out of Cumbria when we reach the top station. What should be stunning views across the Munnar valley is sadly cloud - its like being in a proper pea-soup fog back home, and we cant see 5m in front of us! We decide against trekking through the dense cloud, especially as it starts to rain. They do have delicious road side passion fruit on sale though.

In the afternoon, we head up to the Eravikulam National Park, which is home to a rare Mountain Goat, the Nilgiri tahr, of which there are few pottering around munching on the bushes at the side of the path. After one of the best curries we have had (and also one of the cheapest) we have a beer with Meeta & Graham and the family, and they very politely look at all of our pictures from India - we realise that we need to do a bit of editing before other friends and family endure our travels of the past 4 months!

Its a glorious morning the next day for our drive over to Periyar Nature reserve and the views across the tea plantations are stunning - you certainly wouldn't get those in the Lake District! Its a good 3 hours drive in Philip's classic Ambassador, he is a great guide pointing out bee hives, rubber trees, all sorts of titbits to keep us interested. We stop off for a ride on a elephant - not the most comfortable rides ever, but great fun plodding through the rainforest (sometimes literally) There is a baby elephant celebrating its second birthday who is very very cute, but we cant help feeling that its a little cruel, the amount of space that they have to roam in...

The nature reserve is a bit of a disappointment. We file onto one of the boats for a cruise around the waterways. Its a pretty expensive trip but we get to see some bison, deer, mongeese (mongooses?) and plenty of birds, but we are at some distance from them. However, all is forgotten when we go for Ayurvedic massage - a wedding treat from Meeta and Graham. The warm oil dripping on your head is a lot more relaxing than it sounds, and is to be recommended to everyone. If we had any stresses, they would have been lifted instantly. Its all that we can manage to have a curry and wonder how we are going to manage without a daily curry fix...

The next and final stop on our Keralan tour is Kumarakom, and we are back down near the hot and sticky backwaters. Its been nice to be up in the hills and get some cooling air, but we are looking forward to getting back to the sun, and away from weather more typical of the UK. Philip once again has some treats up his sleeve and we stop off at a surprisingly interesting spice plantation, a tea factory (very exciting for Luce) and also get up close to some rubber trees to pull off the sap that goes to make rubber (who would have thought?!) We also strike it lucky and spot a working elephant at the side of the road pulling some logs. The strength and ingenuity is astounding. Using his trunk, he wraps a rope around his jaw (we think, but cant see right inside his mouth.) The other end is chained to an enormous tree trunk, which he then hauls out into the road, and then with traffic carrying on around him, he hauls it along the road. Brilliant, and one of the best things about India - who knows what will be happening around the next corner?

Our last night resort is in beautiful setting next to the backwater, surrounded by palms with houseboats put-putting by. We have a cute cottage overlooking the pool and the water, the weather is the only let down to what would be a fitting final day in India, so instead we get Philip to drive us over to the Taj Hotel to meet Graham, Meeta & Arnie for drinks.

Kerala Pt 1 - Kochi - Allapuzha Houseboat (10 - 15 Dec)

Our last overnight train in India passes without incident apart from discovering that banana chips are one of the best station snacks available and cashew nuts taste a whole lot better!

Kochi is a series of islands linked by bridges and ferries. We take a cab over from the station to Fort Kochi, where we staying with Prem and his family in their extension. The room is pretty basic, but we are in the centre of Fort Kochi which is where the main focus of tourist activity is. Fort Kochi has a feel of Southern Europe, chilled out much slower pace of life than in the North of India, and its nice to wander around past churches, tidier streets and along the waterfront, past enormous Chinese fishing nets which are a Keralan tradition.

We spend the evening at the Khatakhali - traditional Keralan theatre that is like nothing else. We watch the actors get make up done first. They are heavily made up and the lead has big chops built up to give him a 3D effect. The show itself lasts fir 6+hours, but we are just seeing a part of the story. There is no speaking, just drums and chimes, and the actors overact out scenes telling the story in time with the beat. Its oddly enjoyable, but utterly bewildering. Fortunately we have a programme guide which outlines the story for us. Scenes that would take 10 mins in Western theatre last for an hour an a half in Khatakhali...

Next morning, we hire the knackiest old scooter in the world. It gets us up to Cherai beach though, which the Lonely Planet calls Kochi's hidden gem. Its a beautiful beach about 25kms north of the city, and wonderfully quiet. Its not a patch on the beaches in North Goa though, but its a nice ride out, and a good beer watching sunset moment...

We spent our last day in Kochi mooching around, taking the local ferry over to the main land (Ernakulam) and back via Willingdon Island, where there has been a huge boat race stopping over as part of the round the world race. The boats have left in the afternoon, so we missed the party once again. We find a fantastic restaurant for supper - we're out for a treat so even splash out on a bottle of wine (which we have to buy from next door and hide while we drink it!) Its chicken tikka and crab Ulaya.... (cant remember the full, long name, but it was delicious!) The local bar shuts at 1030 and we are left with a couple of Irish guys who we cant understand, and a guy from Sheffield, so we head off home meeting some guys putting up a banner for their new restaurant outside the Khatakhali theatre, obviously aiming for the tourist market.

Next morning we are up early to be collected by Philip in his ancient Ambassador car. He is to be our driver for our last few days in India, and its a real treat to be chauffeured around Kerala for the next week. Its odd thinking of going back to the UK - there is a feeling that it is the end of the holiday, but we are only going to be in the UK for 4 days, and then its off again. I guess that we are also sad to be leaving India, as it has been tonnes of fun over the last 6 weeks.

Before we go though, we have one the best days of all - a houseboat around the Keralan backwaters is an essential part of any trip to India. We are the only two on board a luxury boat, with three crew to look after us. The boat is bigger than anywhere else that we have stayed, and we settle in the open air lounge area as our captain negotiates us away from the port. Its nowhere near isolation, but the scenery is stunning. We slowly pass by the palm and banana tree lined waters with blue sky and the sun peeking through, Its idyllic, and clam and peaceful. The perfect relaxation. Lunch is served on a banana leaf, and there is enough for four people, so perfect for us. In the afternoon we pass alongside thin spits of land that are full of palm trees - sprouting up seemingly floating on the water. There are also small communities of people living on the narrow stretches of land, churches, temples shops. Its a fascinating afternoon, and all too soon we park up for the evening, sadly in the site of a busy roadbridge up ahead. Supper more than makes up for it (even though we have to use plates.)

Next morning we are up to watch the sunrise over the backwaters - another breathtaking experience, and worth the early start. After breakfast we head back to port, and although its like houseboat gridlock getting back, nothing can spoil the last 24 hours...

Goa (29 Nov - 10 Dec)

The journey from Amritsar is pretty long, but all goes smoothly - apart from the luggage Nazi at checkin in Delhi airport who tries to charge us for overweight baggage. In future we will stick to flying with Kingfisher airline, not miserable in a Ryanair-style way Go Air... We're pleased to arrive at Villa Anjuna after 24hrs on the road and find a Goan curry

We soon decide to extend our week in Goa and miss out going to Hampi as lounging on the beach or by the pool is a real treat after missioning around the rest of India staying two or three nights in each place. Its nice to actually unpack our bags and spread out safe in the knowledge that we wont have to pack up anytime soon.

The further North in Goa, the better the beaches. We hire a scooter so can explore at will. Also the further North, the fewer hassles from people selling their wares on the beach, and also the fewer cows trying to steal your fruit - they also apparently like paper so need to keep an eye on your book too. Morjim is our favourite beach - if only for the name and Mandrem which is the Goan beach that you see in the brochures.

Further South, is the package holiday destinations of Baga and Calangute, which are pretty ugly in a Costa Del Sol kind of way, over developed and lots of hassles and unwanted attention. The development seems to be increasing unchecked, and its a tragedy to see rubbish tipped all over, destroying the coastline. We disappointingly notice a few Indian tourists who leave their empty water bottles on the sand, but then there are so few bins, and no sign of any collection that its easier to understand their lack of education. Baga is also the centre for timeshare selling. We decide to go along to one place when Luce "wins" one of their main prizes (turns out to be a week's stay at the resort) and Jim "wins" one of the runner's up prize (restaurant voucher.) The plan is to go along, listen to their spiel for a bit, and then use their 5* facilities, but their pool is in the shade, so we use the restaurant voucher and head home for sunset. We actually quite enjoyed chatting to Mike the salesman - obviously we've been on our own too much.

Goa also has some fantastic restaurants. The aptly named Sublime, which has beef on the menu (no problem with sacred cows here) and enough beach side places to have curry or fresh fish and watch the sun go down. Beer is also cheaper here than the rest of India, which just adds to the temptation - Paradiso night club is just a stone's throw away from our hotel, but after one serious night out there, Jim still insists on getting a taxi the 100m home. Its easy to make friends in Paradiso - we hang out with Cathy and Jenny who work around the corner from us in London who are a good laugh, and enjoy going for hangover pizza.

All too soon our time in Goa is over but we're off further South, where the sun is definitely still shining to Kochi, and to meet with Meeta & Graham...

Amritsar 26-28 Nov

We arrive in Amritsar at about 1000am and its a bit chilly. We're greeted by a host of taxi and rickshaw drivers, but our hotel is almost opposite the station so we bowl them out of the way like skittles on the way past. After a spot of breakfast, we head down to the Golden Temple - the main site of Amritsar and the most holy shrine of the Sikh religion. Its a pretty impressive site, and packed with Sikhs visiting the original copy of their Bible, praying and bathing in the pool surrounding the temple. Its a bit overcast so we dont get the full effect of the sun shining on the gold, but its still an impressive site and the Hindu script embossed in gold is truly stunning. Everyone inside has their shoes off and their heads covered, and are very VERY pleased to see us.

Amritsar is a very polluted city - seemingly more than any other city that we have visited, and thus not the most pleasant to wander around. After a stop off for a Dosa, whch is similar to a crepe, but filled with curried veg, we give up trying to find anothe temple as the map in the Lonely Planet is pretty useless.

That evening, the terrorist attack in Mumbai begins - at first its reported as gang battles along the Colaba causeway, where we spent our first night in India. We had curry in Leopold's restaurant which later turns out to be the start of the indescriminate, random shooting and had drinks in the bar at the Taj Mahal Hotel. We're thankful that we are three weeks further on in our trip, and saddened that places where we had such fun and happy times will never be the same again.

The other major site to visit in Amritsar is the closing ceremony at the border gate with Pakistan. Every day, just before sunset, 1000s of people gather on both sides of the gate trying to out-sing, out-dance and out-generally-have-a-good-time each other. Flags are waved and loud music blares out in advance of the military procession. After a brief shake of hands and salute between one soldier from each side, there is much gesticulating, staring and stamping of feet, before the various flags are brought down, and returned to barracks until the next day. Its one of the most comedy, unusual, fascinating things that we have seen - and probably the closest that we will ever get to Pakistan! We head back in our rickshaw which is a long old ride and celebrate with a 6 dish dinner including a delicious lamb cooked in spinach special.

We're looking forward to heading down to the beach in Goa after touring big cities and towns around India, but have to get back to Delhi to catch a flight. We're putting our faith into Indian rail that it will get us there in time, but have allowed a 4 hour window for delays. We spend our last day in Amritsar wandering around the slightly less polluted New town, visiting a temple, and trying to visit a museum, but the lonely planet map fails us once more!

Meanwhile the problems in Mumbai continue. Its interesting hearing how the UK is reporting that UK and American citizens were targeted - this is not the impression that Indian TV gives - it seems much more indiscriminate - attacking 5* hotels to ensure coverage across the globe, but no-one seems sure of their aims, demands or purpose. But its not comforting knowing that it is still ongoing after 48 hours, and that any Westerners are targets. We'll certainly be more on our guard around main tourist spots and avoid potential hotspots...

Agra & Delhi (20th-25th Nov)

The day after the Taj is a bit hazy, so we decide to skip the fort in the hope of good weather the following day. There isnt a great deal else to do in and around the Taj - there is a Taj nature walk, and a 5* hotel to take afternoon tea, and plenty of internet cafes (but no wifi), and our roof top bar to have beer and curry.

Thursday we wander down to the fort, which is an interesting place to spend a couple of hours - and look at the views of the other side of the Taj. Shah Jahan, who built the Taj in 1766 as a memorial to his second wife Mumtaz, was imprisoned in the fort by his son Aurangzheb, and could only look out from here to his creation. The immediate area outside the Taj complex is pretty ropey, lots of backpacker places (which do a pretty good curry for next to nothing) dusty roads, smelly camels and cows, and not a lot of relief from salesmen tempting us with their tat. At least there are no motorised rickshaw drivers asking us where we're going - all diesel vehicles are banned within 500m of the Taj to protect it from environmental destruction. We do find some good curry a little further away though!

Next morning, we're up early to get the train to Delhi. Its only a couple of hours late, which isnt too bad. We chose a hotel a little out from the centre in the middle class area of Karol Bargh. We're just off the high street, which is notable for nothing other than the lack of shop assistants hassling us and trying to get us into their shops and a nice bakery with lots of treats to keep us going. There is a metro station at the end of our road which offers an easy trip into town, even though we have to pass through airport style security (separate short queue for women and enormous one for men.) Connaught Place is the centre for shopping, eating and drinking, and we find a bar with loud music, TV screens showing sport and beer on draught, a real treat, even though we would normally avoid such places like the plague. After dinner next door, we head back to the bar to watch premier league football, and have to run to catch the last metro.

We spend our first full day in Delhi exploring the Old Town. Its an easy metro ride to Chandni Chowk a huge bustling street of bazaar selling everything possible, with the Red Fort at one end. The fort is a huge complex that is a bit of an oasis amongst the bustle, but we're a bit over forts having seen so many over the past few days, that we dont hang around for too long, and head over to the Jama Masjid mosque, the biggest in India. We blag our way past a guy who is trying to charge us 200 rupees to bring in our camera but dienst seem to be bothering the 100s of Indians who are bringing in their mobile phones and merrily snapping away. Its an imposing complex - we climb one of the minarets, which is way too small for the number of people up there. Obviously Health & Safety hasnt quite reached Delhi yet.

Next stop is Raj Ghat - we're walking everywhere much to the disappointment and incomprehension of the cycle and auto-rickshaw drivers. Raj Ghat is a simple platform of black marble which marks the site of Ghandi's cremation. We're back over to Connaught Place to enjoy the sunset from a 24 story revolving restaurant. Its a bit hazy to see too much, but at least we're in the area to go back to the sports bar and watch Sunderland lose at football, and England lose to cricket. We make some friends with some Indian cricket fans, one of whom went to Lancaster University, and advises us that Philippines has the best weed in the world, and also cant understand why we're going everywhere in rickshaws, rather than cabs (they're dirt cheap, thats why) Its a bit of a late finish, so we get a very expensive cab home...

After the hustle bustle dust and smells of the Old city, we head to the New City on Monday around the India gate and the government buildings, which were all designed by the British architect Lutyens during the British rule. Its a nice change, and good to see the open spaces of the lawns, and hedges which are well trimmed. To counter the hangovers we find a great lunch venue, and have one of the biggest currys so far (and also one of the best yet) before heading home to doze in front of the film channel, and use the hotel's wifi.

Our train North to Amritsar goes overnight, so we have a day to kill in Delhi. We head out to the Lotus temple, which was recommended by the couple from the train from Jaisalmer to Jaipur. Its a modern place, rather beautiful a good hour away from our hotel. Its the centre of Bahai worship, an all welcoming religion that says that we should all be friendly and happy with each other, and all sounds pretty lovely and tree hugging. Read a bit further though, and ends up sounding a bit like communism - removing extreme wealth and extreme poverty etc. There are lots of school trips wandering around - the highlight for one girl's school seems to be when Luce says hello to them - its then as if Britney Spears is in town the amount of excitement and attention given to Luce.

We also squeeze in a visit to Humayun's tomb, built in advance of the Taj, but not a lot dissimilar to the white marble in Agra. Its a pleasant place to spend some time, but we have to head back to collect our bags and return to the station to get the train. We're only an hour late before leaving the station heading North to the Punjab, and Amritsar. We did find a good selection of curry pies to keep us going while we waited though!