Our last overnight train in India passes without incident apart from discovering that banana chips are one of the best station snacks available and cashew nuts taste a whole lot better!
Kochi is a series of islands linked by bridges and ferries. We take a cab over from the station to Fort Kochi, where we staying with Prem and his family in their extension. The room is pretty basic, but we are in the centre of Fort Kochi which is where the main focus of tourist activity is. Fort Kochi has a feel of Southern Europe, chilled out much slower pace of life than in the North of India, and its nice to wander around past churches, tidier streets and along the waterfront, past enormous Chinese fishing nets which are a Keralan tradition.
We spend the evening at the Khatakhali - traditional Keralan theatre that is like nothing else. We watch the actors get make up done first. They are heavily made up and the lead has big chops built up to give him a 3D effect. The show itself lasts fir 6+hours, but we are just seeing a part of the story. There is no speaking, just drums and chimes, and the actors overact out scenes telling the story in time with the beat. Its oddly enjoyable, but utterly bewildering. Fortunately we have a programme guide which outlines the story for us. Scenes that would take 10 mins in Western theatre last for an hour an a half in Khatakhali...
Next morning, we hire the knackiest old scooter in the world. It gets us up to Cherai beach though, which the Lonely Planet calls Kochi's hidden gem. Its a beautiful beach about 25kms north of the city, and wonderfully quiet. Its not a patch on the beaches in North Goa though, but its a nice ride out, and a good beer watching sunset moment...
We spent our last day in Kochi mooching around, taking the local ferry over to the main land (Ernakulam) and back via Willingdon Island, where there has been a huge boat race stopping over as part of the round the world race. The boats have left in the afternoon, so we missed the party once again. We find a fantastic restaurant for supper - we're out for a treat so even splash out on a bottle of wine (which we have to buy from next door and hide while we drink it!) Its chicken tikka and crab Ulaya.... (cant remember the full, long name, but it was delicious!) The local bar shuts at 1030 and we are left with a couple of Irish guys who we cant understand, and a guy from Sheffield, so we head off home meeting some guys putting up a banner for their new restaurant outside the Khatakhali theatre, obviously aiming for the tourist market.
Next morning we are up early to be collected by Philip in his ancient Ambassador car. He is to be our driver for our last few days in India, and its a real treat to be chauffeured around Kerala for the next week. Its odd thinking of going back to the UK - there is a feeling that it is the end of the holiday, but we are only going to be in the UK for 4 days, and then its off again. I guess that we are also sad to be leaving India, as it has been tonnes of fun over the last 6 weeks.
Before we go though, we have one the best days of all - a houseboat around the Keralan backwaters is an essential part of any trip to India. We are the only two on board a luxury boat, with three crew to look after us. The boat is bigger than anywhere else that we have stayed, and we settle in the open air lounge area as our captain negotiates us away from the port. Its nowhere near isolation, but the scenery is stunning. We slowly pass by the palm and banana tree lined waters with blue sky and the sun peeking through, Its idyllic, and clam and peaceful. The perfect relaxation. Lunch is served on a banana leaf, and there is enough for four people, so perfect for us. In the afternoon we pass alongside thin spits of land that are full of palm trees - sprouting up seemingly floating on the water. There are also small communities of people living on the narrow stretches of land, churches, temples shops. Its a fascinating afternoon, and all too soon we park up for the evening, sadly in the site of a busy roadbridge up ahead. Supper more than makes up for it (even though we have to use plates.)
Next morning we are up to watch the sunrise over the backwaters - another breathtaking experience, and worth the early start. After breakfast we head back to port, and although its like houseboat gridlock getting back, nothing can spoil the last 24 hours...
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