We arrive in Amritsar at about 1000am and its a bit chilly. We're greeted by a host of taxi and rickshaw drivers, but our hotel is almost opposite the station so we bowl them out of the way like skittles on the way past. After a spot of breakfast, we head down to the Golden Temple - the main site of Amritsar and the most holy shrine of the Sikh religion. Its a pretty impressive site, and packed with Sikhs visiting the original copy of their Bible, praying and bathing in the pool surrounding the temple. Its a bit overcast so we dont get the full effect of the sun shining on the gold, but its still an impressive site and the Hindu script embossed in gold is truly stunning. Everyone inside has their shoes off and their heads covered, and are very VERY pleased to see us.
Amritsar is a very polluted city - seemingly more than any other city that we have visited, and thus not the most pleasant to wander around. After a stop off for a Dosa, whch is similar to a crepe, but filled with curried veg, we give up trying to find anothe temple as the map in the Lonely Planet is pretty useless.
That evening, the terrorist attack in Mumbai begins - at first its reported as gang battles along the Colaba causeway, where we spent our first night in India. We had curry in Leopold's restaurant which later turns out to be the start of the indescriminate, random shooting and had drinks in the bar at the Taj Mahal Hotel. We're thankful that we are three weeks further on in our trip, and saddened that places where we had such fun and happy times will never be the same again.
The other major site to visit in Amritsar is the closing ceremony at the border gate with Pakistan. Every day, just before sunset, 1000s of people gather on both sides of the gate trying to out-sing, out-dance and out-generally-have-a-good-time each other. Flags are waved and loud music blares out in advance of the military procession. After a brief shake of hands and salute between one soldier from each side, there is much gesticulating, staring and stamping of feet, before the various flags are brought down, and returned to barracks until the next day. Its one of the most comedy, unusual, fascinating things that we have seen - and probably the closest that we will ever get to Pakistan! We head back in our rickshaw which is a long old ride and celebrate with a 6 dish dinner including a delicious lamb cooked in spinach special.
We're looking forward to heading down to the beach in Goa after touring big cities and towns around India, but have to get back to Delhi to catch a flight. We're putting our faith into Indian rail that it will get us there in time, but have allowed a 4 hour window for delays. We spend our last day in Amritsar wandering around the slightly less polluted New town, visiting a temple, and trying to visit a museum, but the lonely planet map fails us once more!
Meanwhile the problems in Mumbai continue. Its interesting hearing how the UK is reporting that UK and American citizens were targeted - this is not the impression that Indian TV gives - it seems much more indiscriminate - attacking 5* hotels to ensure coverage across the globe, but no-one seems sure of their aims, demands or purpose. But its not comforting knowing that it is still ongoing after 48 hours, and that any Westerners are targets. We'll certainly be more on our guard around main tourist spots and avoid potential hotspots...
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