Tuesday 20 January 2009

Phu Quoc - Chau Doc (10-13 jan)






Phu Quoc is a little gem of an island off the South Western coast of Vietnam, but its a real pain to get to and from. The flight in from Ho Chi Minh City is one of the worst landings ever, we're in a twin prop getting blown all over the place, so its even more of a disappointment to get off the plane in a beach paradise to find that its overcast. Fortunately the weather does pick up over the next 3 days and we find some stunning white sandy beaches, and crystal clear blue seas. Its not a hugely developed island - only one tarmac-ed road runs the length and the rest is dirt tracks, which are tricky to negotiate on a scooter! There arent any mega resorts - yet. We stay in a cute little thatched bungalow, but the thatch rattles like nothing else in the wind, so its just as well that we have earplugs. The mozzy net also gets its first run out. There are some cute places to eat and drink on the beach - including the Eden bar that has free wifi so we get to speak to Tom & Tally on a cold Sunday morning in London, while we enjoy a sunset beer.

Leaving Phu Quoc was an altogether less pleasant affair. We're heading to Cambodia via the border town of Cahu Doc, where you can pick up a boat across to Phnom Penh, so we're getting a boat off the island, rather than flying. We're up at dawn to go and get a bus to the ferry terminal - the bus we're told leaves at 630, but doesnt actually get going until 715. The sea looks a little choppy as we pull up at our ferry, and once we get going to the soundtrack of deafening Vietnamese pop, we find out just how choppy it is. The child in front of us is puking up, the child beside us is puking up and so is the woman behind us as well as quite a few other people on the boat. Dont think that we have ever felt so ill, but with focussing on the horizon we manage to keep breakfast down. Somehow, we also manage to nod off, until they change the DVD and we have some Vietnamese comedy stage show - the guys who arent chucking up into small plastic bags handed out by the crew (has to be one of the worst jobs in the world) find it hilarious. We want to die.

Once back on dry land, we strike it lucky with our onward travel, and instead of having to get a public bus, we find a chap who is willing to drive us for 3 hours for about £4. In no way though does this make up for the mornings boat trip.

We find a little hotel next to our drop off spot in Chau Doc, which is the starting point for boats crossing the border into Cambodia Despite the boat trip from Phu Quoc we are assured that travelling along the river will offer a calmer trip than crossing the South China Sea, and book our onward tickets. Elton & Angelina, some travelling buddies we met in Phu Quoc recommend a place for lunch, and we dine in style on grouper with tomatoes - possible the most delicious fish we've ever had, and it costs less than £3.

We're happy to go to bed after such a traumatic day, that started off so badly, but in the end turned out quite nicely!

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