Jerusalem

Jerusalem

Jerusalem is a unique city, and completely crazy. With important monuments for Islam, Judaism and Christianity piled on top of each other, it is clear why it is such a complicated place that causes much arguing. We're awakened early by the muezzin from the nearby mosque, closely followed by the first of many groups of Christians passing by our window carrying a cross singing hymns. We are staying on the Via Dolorosa, which is the supposed route that Jesus carried his cross. After dragging our bags along the road, I kinda get a feel for how he must have felt.

We're up and out after another boiled egg breakfast and off to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, which we were advised to get to early. This church was built on the site where most Christians believe that Jesus was crucified, buried and rose to heaven. Its quite unassuming from the outside, but inside is a very different story with gaudy mosaics the first thing we see. In front of which is a stone where various people are kneeling down and kissing. There's nothing to indicate what this is, so maybe we should have paid more attention in scripture class, but we think that its where Mr Christ was buried. Further into the church, and there is a rowdy mob crowded another tomb. There doesnt seem to be any sort of method to this, but we want to see what's inside, so join in. We come to believe that this is where Jesus rose to heaven, and inside the darkened tomb, guarded by an aging bearded chap, who could be a priest, is a hugely ornate temple to Jesus. We're not allowed to hang around though, and are soon ushered on by Mr Priest.

The rest of the church is a lot nice, less hassled. The Christians only seem to be bothered about those two places, and a third area which we are literally manhandled through by another priest. We leave feeling pretty disillusioned by the Christians, who dont seem to be very, well, Christian, and could do with a bit of organisation.

Next stop is the Tower of David Museum, which shows us the troubled history of Jerusalem. Its been involved in so many battles, with so many different religions and peoples taking control, that its easy to understand why this area is so troubled. The Brits were in charge for a while, and I think we probably did a good job, and introduced a bit of order to the place! Not surprisingly though we handed it back when we realised that even for us, it was too much of a challenge.

Lunch is felafel in the rooftops of the Old City. We look out at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and Dome of the Rock - its quite a stunning vista.

Next stop is Temple Mount and the Western Wall - the only remaining part of the first temple built by Solomon, making it one of Judaism's most holy places. There is major security here, and need to pass through x-ray machine to get access. There are 100s of Jews worshipping at the wall, and sticking prayer notes in between the bricks. Men and women are separated, and its quite a fascinating site. Many many people all in the same place for the same reason. Beyond the wall is the Dome of the Rock, one of Islam's most holy places. Its amazing to think that the source of so much conflict can be so close together in such controversial surroundings.

England are playing this evening, so we head into the New City where there are bars and restaurants aplenty, and have a beer watching England cruise to a 3-1 win against Belarus.

The next day, we are up early to get to the Dome of the Rock. Architecturally the most striking of the religious places, with its Golden dome glistening in the sun. Its also incredibly peaceful and pleasant to wander round, although we, as non-Islam, cannot enter to see whats inside.

We're up early so that we can get down to the Dead Sea for the day, and hike up to the bus station to get the bus to En Gedi. We pass a sign that indicates we are at sea level, and continue the descent to 400m below sea level - the lowest place on earth.

Its quite a surreal float in a slimy water that doesn't evaporate as quickly as regular ocean water. Its clear enough, but its not something that you want to get a taste of (there is a sign indicating that it is illegal to drink the Dead Sea Water...) We also find a mud pool and have a great old time smothering each other in mud. After a rinse in the water, I guess our skin does feel softer. Should have rubbed some on the bald spot though as it might have encouraged some more growth. The bus back is a pain - its all uphill, and the driver doesn't seem to be able to do a hill start at all - but we get back safely and find some decent supper in the New Town.

Next day is Friday - and the start of Shabbatt in the afternoon, so we plan to get on our way to Tel Aviv. We have a quick scout through the guide book, but decide to pass on Mount of Olives, and the Jewish museum Yad Vashem and head straight on to the delights and beaches of Tel Aviv...